The mark is one input to your ledger, not the point of it. We build it from real market data and surface everything behind it, so no mark is a black box. It is an estimate, not a verdict: if you think a mark is wrong, set your own and we use it going forward.
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A card's name and number aren't enough to mark it. Charizard #4/102 is a $165 Celebrations reprint, a 1999 Base Set original worth many times more, and a gold-metal novelty that isn't a real card at all. Same name, same number, wildly different money.
Every card is resolved to one catalog identity before a single price is pulled. If a listing is not your card, it never touches your number.
Everything we can find on the card goes into one pool: what it has recently sold for, and what people are asking for it right now. We pull only the condition you hold, and strip the noise: proxies, lots, bundles, empty sleeves, and mistyped listings.
Then the outliers leave. Anyone can list a card far above where it trades and hope; a listing far below that's really a sticker is just as wrong. What survives is the part of the pool that real money has stood behind.
SoldAsking×marks sales and asks excluded as outliersIllustrative example, one card.
A single number hides how sure it is. So the mark always comes with the band it sits in: the low and the high of what survived. A tight band means the market agrees; a wide one means it's your call, and now you can see that instead of guessing.
It is published with the range it sits in, the count of sales behind it, and a confidence read.
The mark itself is the median of what survived: the middle of the pool, not an average and not the midpoint of the band.
A mark backed by one sale and a mark backed by fifty should not look the same, but on most guides they're printed identically. Where a card trades thinly, the range comes out wide, and a wide range is the warning.
And some cards barely trade. Rather than invent a confident figure from two stale listings, when too few datapoints survive we publish no mark at all, and the card is left out of your totals rather than dragging them.
Average three different cards together because they share a name and number.
×Let one wishful listing pull the number up, or one mistake pull it down.
×Compare a raw card to graded slabs, or a near-mint to a beater.
×Print a one-sale guess and a fifty-sale consensus as if they're equally solid.
×Show you a number and hide where it came from. Every mark opens up to the sales and asks behind it.
×One piece of the ledger, not the whole point.
No credit card · your data is always exportable